#Spacedock IRC group build-Ultraman

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Dan840
Posts: 113
Joined: April 4th, 2019, 12:27 am

August 7th, 2019, 3:24 am

Pulled this bag of parts off the shelf tonight. Figured I would tinker with it inbetween waiting for primer to dry on my TOS 350 nacelles.

I got this kit off of eBay almost 3 years ago. Started it, but only got as far as cutting away the excess vinyl and dry fitting. The upper and lower torso were horrible fits. didn't line up at all. I snapped the tip of the fin off the head piece. I tried to use hot water to manipulate the torso halves, but it didn't take and I got frustrated and gave up.

Tonight, I decided to attack it with the heat gun, and with some patience I had a great deal more success. The fit is still crappy, but it is now mostly lined up. It will take a great deal of putty to smooth out the join, but I'm more optimistic than before.

I make no guarantees, but I'm going to give this another shot at trying to complete this. I have already made provisions to light the chest light. Need to get a 10mm blue LED though. White will not do. This is a big kit, over a foot tall completed. If I was real ambitious, I would ask Ralph at Tenacontrols to make a flasher board for me that increases the flash sequence like the timer on the show. But that would require a blue/red bi-color LED, and I don't know if that even exists at any size, let alone a 10mm. Also going to try to light the eyes. The real trick there is just the light blocking, I think.

Any advice on dealing with vinyl kits would be appreciated. I know about CA glue and using only acrylic paints. I'll probably use Stynylrez primers for base coat and light blocking. I have gray and black for that. Would Tamiya acrylic putty be the best for this?

Thanks!
IMG_20190806_220207.jpg
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Dan840
Posts: 113
Joined: April 4th, 2019, 12:27 am

August 14th, 2019, 8:35 pm

Making a bit of progress on the Ultraman kit. Received the 10mm blue LEDs from LED-Switch on Monday. I ordered both clear and diffused just to be safe. Decided to go with the diffused, since it gives a uniform light no matter what angle you look at it from. I will be running the lighting at probably 12v, and may resistor the chest LED down a bit, but I'm happy with the way it looks in person. For the picture I had it turned down to only 3v so as not to completely wash it out.
IMG_20190814_154630.jpg
Running at 3v. Check out the blue halo :!:

For the eyes, I built up a platform of strips of styrene and once I was happy with the placement, I CAd it to the back head section. This will allow me to place a 3-LED segment of cool white LED tape so it gets the maximum brightness for the eyes.
IMG_20190814_161709.jpg
I had to carefully thin out the inside of the eyes with my Dremel round tip stone grinding bit to get any light to shine through. The vinyl is pretty opaque overall. Originally I thought I would paint the eyes with Tamiya clear yellow, but I'm debating now because the vinyl causes the light to diffuses to a yellowish color already. I also lined the inside of the head piece with some foil tape to bounce the light around. Easier in this instance than painting everything gloss white.
IMG_20190814_154157.jpg
It's brighter than it is in person, but I think that's the limit of how bright I can get it. I'm satisfied with it.

That's all for now. A ton of putty work and filling around the head piece will need to be done. The painting will be challenging too, but at least there are guidelines molded into the vinyl to go by. Thanks for looking in.
nkaltso
Posts: 22
Joined: August 11th, 2019, 1:06 am

August 16th, 2019, 1:52 am

Looks like a bit of a challenge, but your handling it well.
Looking forward to further progress

Nick
Nothing is certain but death, taxes, and overspray
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Dan840
Posts: 113
Joined: April 4th, 2019, 12:27 am

August 16th, 2019, 4:10 pm

Thanks Nick. Quick update/tip. A suggestion from Chuck Brooks on CP101's Facebook page led me to use Tulip black fabric paint to fill the gaps where the two head pieces met. Light leaks solved and a lot less putty will be needed. Should have thought of that myself.
nkaltso
Posts: 22
Joined: August 11th, 2019, 1:06 am

August 16th, 2019, 8:44 pm

Dan840 wrote:
August 16th, 2019, 4:10 pm
Thanks Nick. Quick update/tip. A suggestion from Chuck Brooks on CP101's Facebook page led me to use Tulip black fabric paint to fill the gaps where the two head pieces met. Light leaks solved and a lot less putty will be needed. Should have thought of that myself.
Thanks for the tip. I use electronic tape to light block, but your not going to get tape up in that area.
I may get some of that paint and try it out.
Thanks
Nick
Nothing is certain but death, taxes, and overspray
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Dan840
Posts: 113
Joined: April 4th, 2019, 12:27 am

August 16th, 2019, 9:15 pm

nkaltso wrote:
August 16th, 2019, 8:44 pm
Dan840 wrote:
August 16th, 2019, 4:10 pm
Thanks Nick. Quick update/tip. A suggestion from Chuck Brooks on CP101's Facebook page led me to use Tulip black fabric paint to fill the gaps where the two head pieces met. Light leaks solved and a lot less putty will be needed. Should have thought of that myself.
Thanks for the tip. I use electronic tape to light block, but your not going to get tape up in that area.
I may get some of that paint and try it out.
Thanks
Nick
It's pretty versatile stuff. It dries solid, and I actually used it to add some weight in the nose of a tail sitting F-100 Super Sabre that I only had a small narrow opening to squirt the stuff through. It can be kinda messy to work with; need to be careful not touch it because it can easily be transferred to any nearby stuff.
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